After cutting the power transformer's wire to length I found that it is easier to strip the wire and tin the leads with the pt out of the chassis. That's what I worked on last night. After tinning the leads I soldered the fuse wire, lamp, power switch, and the first 2 leads to the power tube - the 6.3v.
Coming from the pt the two green wires go to the lamp and then on to the power tube socket numbers 2 and 7. These wires supply the need 6.3 volts.
The black wire from the pt goes to the fuse. The other side of the fuse will be a black wire from the cord that plugs into the wall.
For the power switch I made an optional change that is not mentioned in the book. This option comes from the updated notes by Dave Hunter. I replaced the on/off power switch with an on/off/on switch and I wired the pt's blue wire in the up/on position which will supply 125 volts and the down/on position will supply 120 volts to the amp. According to hunter the extra 5v will not hurt the amp and will actually give a slightly different sound. I'm all about versitility.
The last thing I worked on was a resister between lug 5 & 6 on the power tube socket - I almost missed that. This is actually the hardest fitting resister I've had to do yet because the distance is smaller than the resistor itself. I suggest not cutting the wires until after bending them in place and making a good mechanical connection. This would have been easier making this connection with the tube socket out of the chassis. I soldered them while in the chassis - do it before you put it in the chassis and before wiring any other wires to the socket.
I'm still working on drilling a hole in the chassis - I need to buy a bigger drill bit and I hope to go to sears or ace today and get that.
No pictures of last nights work which is probably fine since I just cannot seem to get any really good pics from that camera. I will take and post some as I make a little more progess.
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